http://www.vintagepinball.co.uk/index.html

 

 

Well over time, I have definitely borrowed a few pictures from these pages,

 

…but dang, it just dawned on me that these folks are a “wonderful pinball repair” site

 

Want your Bingo repaired in the U.K. – Well here ya go!

 

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Work on a Bally bingo,

 

Inside the head, almost all the components of all but the early bingo games are in the head or on the back door, there are far fewer components in the cabinet. Everything you see in these images has been stripped, cleaned, lubed & rebuilt. Also note the new corner bracing to the back box. I had to repair all four corners as it was not structurally sound when I bought it.

 

The back door. This has just been replaced. All these units were slid on to a temporary stand, a new door made using the original as a template. It was painted to match the original colour, and all the components were fitted to it. New labels were made & stapled on.

 

 

 

The back door units on a temporary stand

 

 

The magic squares gearing. These spin constantly when the game is on. Note the heavy engineering, no wonder these games could run twelve hours plus every day, operate a million plus cycles and still have very little wear. These are the most complex EM pinballs ever made.

 

These are the wiper discs those gears drive. They are released by index relays, and are driven via leather clutch washers, lubricated by Neatsfoot oil. They operate the magic squares & lines, via buttons on the lock down bar, and alter the circuits accordingly.

 

The gears all cleaned up, ready for fresh grease and reassembly in to the magic squares unit.

 

  

 

Most of the games I buy have not been used for many years. They will just about light up when I first turn them on. Some may play a game, sort of, but most are in need of serious work. When I have determined that the game powers up, I turn the game off and go through it electro mechanically from top to bottom. That means stripping, cleaning & rebuilding every component, cleaning & gapping every contact, fitting new parts as required. Then I reassemble the game and test play it again. I attend to any small faults remaining and refine how it plays. Then I repair or replace all the faulty lampholders and lamps. Blackened lamps should always be replaced. Even if they still work, they get much hotter than a good lamp, and the heat can damage inserts and warp plastics. When the game is playing as it should, and lighting up as it should, I have finished the repairs. As long as it is then played regularly, it should play properly and work for years. The odd small fault may arise as these games are now several decades old, but as the game will be working as it should when a fault occurs, it should be easy to diagnose and repair. An occasional replacement rubber ring set and regular playfield polishing is all any game should need. The next job is to restore the game cosmetically.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mr. Nick Whiting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice work Brother,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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