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Bingo Pinballs
Created on 06-11-2010 - Last Updated 07-25-2010 |
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~ Rec.Games.Pinball is a good high-traffic forum for
Q&A’s – Even the Man himself is out there sometimes ~ Message 1 in
thread From: Dave
(low5@sympatico.ca) Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball Hello All, does
anyone know if in a Bally game, old mechanical that is, does the wiring color
remain the same from top playfield wiring to
cabinet wiring? What I mean is, if you find a red wire with yellow strips in
one part of the machine, is it essentially the same wire as
another red and yellow one found in another part of the machine? Are there
any downloadable schematics available on line. Dave. Message 2 in
thread From: Lloyd R
Olson (ltg@ssbilliards.com) You would think
so, but I wouldn't rely on it as 100 percent all the time. I had a schematic
from another manufacturer, beautiful huge
fold out thing, and there in the corner was printed " due to wire
shortages the wire colors may not be the same in your
machine". And the old cloth
wires do discolor with age. LTG :) Phil Message 3 in
thread From: phil (bingo@cdyn.com) I wouldn't bet
on it. Bally didn't have an
infinite number of color combinations, so they needed to reuse the wire in different
circuits. Bingos, for example,
can use the same wire color more than ten times. On the
manual/schematic, the difference is denoted by a suffix. e.g. 74-1, 74-2, etc. the colors are: 1 - red 2 - blue 3 - yellow 4 - green 5 - white 6 - brown 7 - orange 8 - black 9 - gray 0 - no tracer
(e.g. 70 is solid orange) take care, phil ~ Phil’s
website has all of the Bally schematics posted and many from the other
vendors – I have a few odd ones available too! It was common for both
Bally and United to use the same wires colors over-and-over in any one
machine, especially on the early bingos. In the later games, post 70’
like Dixieland, the wiring was pretty uniform and although they would still
use the same wire color more than once in a given machine, the wires in the
top box machined those in the lower box. Where applicable, the color-coding
was listed in the Operators Manual:
If
you’re going to start pulling your bundles apart to trace the wiring,
you need to remember to be pretty careful about applying stresses on the
wires when working near the modules and connectors, where the wiring
terminates at solder joints – etc. Most of these machines are 40-50
years old now and the solder joints and wiring has been known to become
brittle after all these years – I have some info on cleaning the
cloth-wrapping if you want it, but I wouldn’t recommend it as a common
practice – Any solvent no matter how innocuous, can get on the
sensitive modules and bleed out the “already old lubricants” and
damage and corrode the contacts and fiber parts – etc
~
Everything, including the wiring, is dense-packed in many of these Bingos ~ Your
safest approach to wire trouble-shooing is to start with some
“non-power” point-to-point ohm testing based upon the
schematic and module tags to trace your wiring questions, concerns,
and problems. Safer for
you and your antique; really, pulling these bundles apart should be a last
resort. ~ Be
careful in there, this is live A.C. circuitry when plugged in! ~
~ You can email with technical questions! ~
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