Bingo pinballs
Circa 2011
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Jan 11, 2011
hi danny, my name is steve, I have
acquired the super six cards bingo that is in the pictures, small world.. I do have it working sort of, but i cant find
much info, if you did own this at one time i would
like to pick your brain a bit. please call me at 304-677-1339 and email kaufman37@gmail.com
oh,
only thing not working is scoring..
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Jan 12, 2011
thanks
for replying, ive been repairing, or trying too,
machines for a few years, i have a friend who works
out of town who knows i love these things, so picks em up and we trade around.. a
while back he got this super six cards i think in
NJ. I am in West Virginia and currently am working on a hawaii for a friend and a Bally big time for me, so i got this off of him mainly for the playfield parts to use
in big time, but this super six cards is in such great shape, i guess ill leave it
intact. but its the same one thats in your pics, even has the green writing still on the
side, ill stop trying to clean it off now....im going to get pics of eveything,
and send to you, today, but things ive noticed are it
looks to have a input for the keybrd under playfield
in front, and has a remote receiver in back, firmware on chips says super six
cards, no manufacturer, and two sets of 8 dipswitches, i
did play with them itll award 50 credits/token now, theirs a few other things odd, but hopefully well discuss later, the machine does seem to be close clone
of a bally. battery on mpu needs replaced soon, i don’t know if that’s a possibility but everything plays
fine now just doesn’t register any wins. i
had to solder a connector and fix a few bent switches, but this machine was
well taken care of. oh euro continental is the
closest thing ive found to it, but a few
differences. anyway thanks for replying your
welcome to call or ill call you my number is
304-677-1339 i drive a school bus so im home most of the day its 530 am here so hopefully in a
few hours ill get the pics sent
thanks
again
steve
super
six 1.rar
super
six 2.rar
super
six 3.rar
To Me
Jan 12, 2011
here’s
3 the resistors on the display board look burnt, they do get hot but they seem
to test fine, if im testing right, plus all displays
light and adding credits shows up correctly on top display the multiplier
display works normal, missing a segment though, but it does need a new
connector there are 2 wires behind coin door, a yell/green that goes from
ground by the blue button into wire harness and a yellow
that goes to ground on tilt plumb, i have looked
everywhere and cant seem to find anyplace these may
go, maybe to an existing door switch?? the games works fine multiplier and all,
but when a combination should score the displays stay at zero pressing c button
puts the game in tilt pressing r, d, 1/2 does nothing, but testing with
meter does show when pressed the battery is starting to corrode with a few
resistors, but they seem to test ok i did fix the
coin mech on 5bf but not on 25 bf the switch seems to
work, but haven’t tested, nothing registers when coin triggers you can here it take off credits when reset if u need anything else
please let me know, i know a little but not much
about testing, i get lucky and waste more time than i actually know about repairing,
To steve k
Jan 14, 2011
Hi
Steve - thxs for all of the photos - awesome - photo
#109 showing the display panel is very telling - the way those fuses are burnt
tells us something on one side of them shorted out (internally or to ground)
and caused enough current flow to over
heat the resistors and burn them out. likely the reason they
still measures good, is that what
ever was shorted finally burnt out (open) completely before the
resistors opened (acted as fuses)
The
seven resistors, r8 through r14, likely drive the 7-segment displays _ the
7-segment displays come in two varieties and generally are driven from some
sort of IC (see attached photo and link)
http://www.thelearningpit.com/lp/doc/7seg/7seg.html
The
7-segment displays are basically 7 diodes housed together so they have
resistance (impedance from their np junctions) and will test out as diodes -
Generally these have 5 legs on ech side of the body
with the center legs being the common _ On the "common cathode" parts
which likely yours are, the center leg will be ground - so each segment to
ground should show a diode, a resistance, should not be shorted.
What
is great about your circuit, is your top bank works correctly, your credit
display, and can be used for comparison _ The resistances in the lower bank
should match the top bank pretty close...
Do
(measure) pin g to ground, pin f to ground - etc, and
all of these should show resistance
What
type of meter do you have a digital, like a fluke - etc,
or an analog - a meter with a moving needle?
If
you have a digital volt meter, do you know how to identifiy and work the diode checker?
Do
you know how to set it to the resistance scale and measure resitance
- measure ohms?
Do
you know what a diode is and how to measure one?
Somewhere
on one of the lower bank 7-segment diplays, its my guess that one or more of the legs will be short to
ground (the center legs) and show zero or close to zero resistance.......
The
drivers of these parts will likely be mounted on the back of the pcb board, or right off the cables that run from the pcb board to the other circuit, other location, other board
that drivers information to this one.......
The
trick will be to identify which driver ic is involved
(what part number) and what is the part number of the 7-segment drivers, so we
can replace them......
I
don't think you mentioned whether you had a schematic or manual for the
machine?
?? _
Does this help at all _ ??
How
much detail do I need to provide to walk us through this?
Give
me a picture and/or part number of the electronic volt meter you re using please,
Please
send a few pics that show this board from the side view, from an angle - I
can't make out J19 - J20 are these pin - connectors - do ribbon cables or wires
connect to the back to them - etc.
Talk
to you soon,
Danny
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Jan 16, 2011
hey
bud, ok i still havent had
any luck with that 6, 24 ,13 circuit, it worked once yesterday but thats it. but i did test the
led display they all showed no short, i replaced the
resistors but they still are heating up, im actually
using the continental schematic its seem pretty much close, i
thought it might be the multiplier causing this but i
left it unplugged and diodes still heat up if im
reading schematic right i wonder if i should replace u35, u36 and u55. u55 seems to get
warm ok, on rrj19, 19a and rrj 20 they do have wires
in back with plug and on front those are the solder connections for the pins to
the connectors from back still trying to trace this 62-1 return problem, cant
star a game till i find it, it was intermittent but
now seem pretty well a permanent problem let me know if u need more pics think ill clean score reel switches on big time today, doesnt seem to get enough power to score correctly. i think thats all it needs
thanks
steve
To steve k
Jan 17, 2011
hey steve,
so i assume you are talking about wimi's
euro continental being the closet machine to yours? and that yes, you do have
the schematic? what size is it? is it possible to copy and scan and send me, or
photo and send me? i assume that when you refer to it
just won't start up _ that normally when you plug it in, it fires up and
releases balls ands the coin play advances the
features - etc? that now it does absolutely nothing?
and that, that is why you are playing with the ball area because it may not
believe it has any balls and maybe shut down due to sensing that?
replacing
the resistors we'll treat as a separate issue. so you know, this is a symptom of another problem. i am 99% sure one or more of the 7-segment displays is
internally shorted.
back
when they made these machines, there were many wires in the lower cabinet that
were not used and/or identified on the schematics, due to the pressure on the
industry, that these were gambling devices, not simple recreational pinballs -
etc. most of the wires were for extra meters, or for knock-off and credit reset
buttons installed or not installed..... this we can also treat as a separate
issue - one that likely doesn't affect us or that we will ever solve,
i
would not be the least bit surprised that the last time (first time) you got
the machine running it was because you bumped something - 75-to-80% of the defects
with these machines are related to something physically loose, broken, twisted,
damaged, dirty - etc _ So part of
trouble-shooting is to do a very good visual inspection of the internals
(wiring, cards, modules - etc) with a good light
source (strong drop light - etc) _ taking your time
to look for obvious problems _ just like you have been doing on the old
electro-mechanicals, likes your Big Time.......
Big
Time was my first bingo and great _ every problem I found was
physical...........
As
to the schematic, even pieces would be helpful,
Like
that of the circuit you are referring to,
Now
the trough switches although mechanical trigger an electrical change in the
circuit _ likely pulled some node low (electrically low to ground potential - etc) so instead of guessing f they are the problem and if the are or are not working, we
can put your meter across the node and verify if it is low or high as needed.
regards,
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Jan 18, 2011
ive
been using the bally continental schematic i
downloaded from a site, its the only ss one i could find, but everything seems to pretty
well match. im getting close, ive eliminated probably 75% of things. my friend from raytheon is going to come over this week i think, and we should be able to find the startup problem.. what it does is when u put a coin in it adds
credits fine, i can push red button to play them and
even rack up the multiplier to 10, the if there is a ball in any of the holes
it will release them to the trough, except holes 24, 13, and 6, and then
nothing else happens unless i tilt it, when this prob
was intermittent i would here the ball lift motor
bump a little, then i could push the manual lift
button and play fine for a while, but now it seems to be more permanent. it
acts like theres no power to those switches, but
testing them shows 3 volts, and continuity seems fine on all the wires, so i think its a return line, but im having difficulty with following the schematic. on
the schematic that circuit shows a runway switch in circuit with those holes,
which i think maybe is causing the game
to not start. what is also confusing is that on one of the
schematic pages it shows R button etc and ball trough
switch and lift motor together (i think) in that
line
http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/continental/resources/manual-continental.pdf
heres the
link where i got the manual,
i
could be way off but i think the bally continental
boards is very close to this machine
i did
convert a euro continental from french to english text, but still hard to read, i
left out pics just the text ive attached it, but dont know if it will help with anything.
ill
keep u updated regularly, that circuit is in the chematics
for bally continental 62-1 return 6 seems to be it
having
fun
thanks
steve
1
Attachment
Introductioneurocontinental
translated
.docx
To steve k
Jan 18, 2011
thxs steve,
ok i'll wait to hear the results from your next get together
with your raytheon buddy.......
can
you please email the schematic or point me to the website so I can also down
load it - once in hand - i will give you measuring
points for the 7-segments display board, so we can isolate the defects there - i will also see if i can use it
to identify replacement parts...
steve k
Snippet unavailable
To
Me
Jan
18, 2011
danny, heres the link for the schematics
im
thinking of replacing 4 chips off of a return 6 they are ecg3086 opto isolators, 8 pin
thats all
i know as of now, ive tried
to find the short for those resistors, but no luck also
thanks
again for everything
steve
http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/continental/resources/manual-continental.pdf
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Jan 25, 2011
hey
Danny, just to give you an update.... my friend found at least one transistor
bad q17 and maybe q19, but the trace needs repaired so he took the boards with
him, it goes to the ball lift motor, he also took the led board, so hopefully ill know more Friday ill keep u
posted... thanks. He tested all the chips, and they seem fine, so
hopefully just transistors
steve
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Feb 5, 2011
Sure,
if u need more pix or anything let me know, he got me the boards back,
yesterday, but we usually only have 2 hours each week to test, I shot a
transistor on my lethal weapon for my dmd display so all of our time went to getting a fuse to stop blowing,
still have a cap or a resistor thats not sending 100v
to connector.
He
wants to test some things on the boards he fixed before i
try them in the super six, not sure what, i really
want to hook em back up but he said to wait. He
said everything on the mpu and led displays tested
fine, so well probably move to the other boards
strobes i think he said, after we get this
startup prob fixed, hopefully it was just the transistor he replaced,
but he should be back on friday if snow holds
off.
oh, i did find a chip that someone had cut a pin and jumpered with solder underneath on mpu,
i thought that might have been a problem, so i put it how you would think it goes, but all that did was
disable the multiplier so had to redo that back to the way it was, i can send pics of chip, but prob not much of a big
deal. this was before he took the boards, forgot to mention that earlier.
thanks
steve
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Feb 15, 2011
well,
not much luck this week, my meter broke, just bought a new one and its
defective (radio shack) my friend has flu, so he didnt
make it up, and still troubleshooting a dataeast
power supply, (may have to break down and buy a new one) so maybe this friday can make some progress. ill
keep you posted
steve
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Feb 28, 2011
Hi
Danny, the power supply was from a lethal weapon 3 pinball, i
did fix it, but the dmd or controller still needs
fixed or replaced, my friend just came back from NC, so in a few days we are
going to get started again on the super six cards, i
was putting off fixing the display on it, until i get
the startup problem fixed but now i think well go
ahead and fix the display just to get that out of the way. ill
get back to you in a few days when he comes over, we should make progress then.
If
you need any pics just let me know ill get them to
you.
thanks,
steve
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Mar 8, 2011
Hi
Danny,
ok
the only board that has a part number is the lamp driver
lda
m-645-455
there
are 2 of them
none
of the other boards has any identification
now
there is a remote control receiver board, but no part
number either
originally
i thought super
six cards was like the euro continental, until i came
across the bally continental schematics and seen that everything pretty much
matched. On the playfield wiring from the bally continental schematics return
62-1 bbp1-10 is the circuit im having
trouble with. Im hoping to get a short video of
whats going on to send to you in a day or two.
My friend hasnt had time to help for the past
few weeks, but maybe this friday.
one thing i noticed about the artwork is its got a lot of purple compared
to other machines that has the same playfied
and
this machine also has a plug up front i guess for the
keyboard display unit, as shown in the bally continental manual.
anything
else you need just let me know, ill get back to you
hopefully friday or saturday
with better result.
thanks
steve
steve k Snippet unavailable
To Me
Mar 10, 2011
Danny,
Made
a little progress today on super six, the back of the mpu
board says made in Italy Hopefully that help,
the
circuits on the mpu do match up with bally
continental, and weve narrowed down the start problem
to the mpu. The wiring and switches all check
out so were going to test chips next week. I am going to get a read from
the 3 eeproms if my friend has the reader, if not im going to order one, dont know
when but ill send u a copy as soon as i get them, i do have the eeprom chip numbers if u need it.
thanks,
Steve
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