Bingo pinballs

Circa 2011

 

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Jan 11, 2011

hi danny, my name is steve, I have acquired the super six cards bingo that is in the pictures, small world.. I do have it working sort of, but i cant find much info, if you did own this at one time i would like to pick your brain a bit. please call me at 304-677-1339 and email kaufman37@gmail.com

oh, only thing not working is scoring..

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Jan 12, 2011

thanks for replying, ive been repairing, or trying too, machines for a few years, i have a friend who works out of town who knows i love these things, so picks em up and we trade around.. a while back he got this super six cards i think in NJ.  I am in West Virginia and currently am working on a hawaii for a friend and a Bally big time for me, so i got this off of him mainly for the playfield parts to use in big time, but this super six cards is in such great shape, i guess ill leave it intact.  but its the same one thats in your pics, even has the green writing still on the side, ill stop trying to clean it off now....im going to get pics of eveything, and send to you, today, but things ive noticed are it looks to have a input for the keybrd under playfield in front, and has a remote receiver in back, firmware on chips says super six cards, no manufacturer, and two sets of 8 dipswitches, i did play with them itll award 50 credits/token now, theirs a few other things odd, but hopefully well discuss later, the machine does seem to be close clone of a bally. battery on mpu needs replaced soon, i donít know if thatís a possibility but everything plays fine now just doesnít register any wins.  i had to solder a connector and fix a few bent switches, but this machine was well taken care of.  oh euro continental is the closest thing ive found to it, but a few differences.  anyway thanks for replying your welcome to call or ill call you my number is 304-677-1339 i drive a school bus so im home most of the day its 530 am here so hopefully in a few hours ill get the pics sent

thanks again

steve

super six 1.rar

super six 2.rar

super six 3.rar

 

To Me

Jan 12, 2011

hereís 3 the resistors on the display board look burnt, they do get hot but they seem to test fine, if im testing right, plus all displays light and adding credits shows up correctly on top display the multiplier display works normal, missing a segment though, but it does need a new connector there are 2 wires behind coin door,  a yell/green that goes from ground by the blue button into wire harness    and a yellow that goes to ground on tilt plumb, i have looked everywhere and cant seem to find anyplace these may go, maybe to an existing door switch?? the games works fine multiplier and all, but when a combination should score the displays stay at zero pressing c button puts the game in tilt pressing r, d, 1/2  does nothing, but testing with meter does show when pressed the battery is starting to corrode with a few resistors, but they seem to test ok i did fix the coin mech on 5bf but not on 25 bf the switch seems to work, but havenít tested, nothing registers when coin triggers you can here it take off credits when reset if u need anything else please let me know, i know a little but not much about testing, i get lucky and waste more time than i actually know about repairing,

 

 

To steve k

Jan 14, 2011

Hi Steve - thxs for all of the photos - awesome - photo #109 showing the display panel is very telling - the way those fuses are burnt tells us something on one side of them shorted out (internally or to ground) and caused enough current flow to over heat the resistors and burn them out. likely the reason they still measures good, is that what ever was shorted finally burnt out (open) completely before the resistors opened (acted as fuses)

The seven resistors, r8 through r14, likely drive the 7-segment displays _ the 7-segment displays come in two varieties and generally are driven from some sort of IC (see attached photo and link)

http://www.thelearningpit.com/lp/doc/7seg/7seg.html

The 7-segment displays are basically 7 diodes housed together so they have resistance (impedance from their np junctions) and will test out as diodes - Generally these have 5 legs on ech side of the body with the center legs being the common _ On the "common cathode" parts which likely yours are, the center leg will be ground - so each segment to ground should show a diode, a resistance, should not be shorted.

What is great about your circuit, is your top bank works correctly, your credit display, and can be used for comparison _ The resistances in the lower bank should match the top bank pretty close...

Do (measure) pin g to ground, pin f to ground - etc, and all of these should show resistance

What type of meter do you have a digital, like a fluke - etc, or an analog - a meter with a moving needle?

If you have a digital volt meter, do you know how to identifiy and work the diode checker?

Do you know how to set it to the resistance scale and measure resitance - measure ohms?

Do you know what a diode is and how to measure one?

Somewhere on one of the lower bank 7-segment diplays, its my guess that one or more of the legs will be short to ground (the center legs) and show zero or close to zero resistance.......

The drivers of these parts will likely be mounted on the back of the pcb board, or right off the cables that run from the pcb board to the other circuit, other location, other board that drivers information to this one.......

The trick will be to identify which driver ic is involved (what part number) and what is the part number of the 7-segment drivers, so we can replace them......

I don't think you mentioned whether you had a schematic or manual for the machine?

?? _ Does this help at all _ ??

How much detail do I need to provide to walk us through this?

Give me a picture and/or part number of the electronic volt meter you re using please,

Please send a few pics that show this board from the side view, from an angle - I can't make out J19 - J20 are these pin - connectors - do ribbon cables or wires connect to the back to them - etc.

Talk to you soon,

Danny

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Jan 16, 2011

hey bud, ok i still havent had any luck with that 6, 24 ,13 circuit, it worked once yesterday but thats it. but i did test the led display they all showed no short, i replaced the resistors but they still are heating up, im actually using the continental schematic its seem pretty much close, i thought it might be the multiplier causing this but i left it unplugged and diodes still heat up if im reading schematic right i wonder if i should replace u35, u36 and u55.  u55 seems to get warm ok, on rrj19, 19a and rrj 20 they do have wires in back with plug and on front those are the solder connections for the pins to the connectors from back still trying to trace this 62-1 return problem, cant star a game till i find it, it was intermittent but now seem pretty well a permanent problem let me know if u need more pics think ill clean score reel switches on big time today, doesnt seem to get enough power to score correctly.  i think thats all it needs

thanks

steve

 

To steve k

Jan 17, 2011

hey steve,

so i assume you are talking about wimi's euro continental being the closet machine to yours? and that yes, you do have the schematic? what size is it? is it possible to copy and scan and send me, or photo and send me? i assume that when you refer to it just won't start up _ that normally when you plug it in, it fires up and releases balls ands the coin play advances the features - etc? that now it does absolutely nothing? and that, that is why you are playing with the ball area because it may not believe it has any balls and maybe shut down due to sensing that?

replacing the resistors we'll treat as a separate issue. so you know, this is a symptom of another problem. i am 99% sure one or more of the 7-segment displays is internally shorted.

back when they made these machines, there were many wires in the lower cabinet that were not used and/or identified on the schematics, due to the pressure on the industry, that these were gambling devices, not simple recreational pinballs - etc. most of the wires were for extra meters, or for knock-off and credit reset buttons installed or not installed..... this we can also treat as a separate issue - one that likely doesn't affect us or that we will ever solve,

i would not be the least bit surprised that the last time (first time) you got the machine running it was because you bumped something - 75-to-80% of the defects with these machines are related to something physically loose, broken, twisted, damaged, dirty - etc _ So part of trouble-shooting is to do a very good visual inspection of the internals (wiring, cards, modules - etc) with a good light source (strong drop light - etc) _ taking your time to look for obvious problems _ just like you have been doing on the old electro-mechanicals, likes your Big Time.......

Big Time was my first bingo and great _ every problem I found was physical...........

As to the schematic, even pieces would be helpful,

Like that of the circuit you are referring to,

Now the trough switches although mechanical trigger an electrical change in the circuit _ likely pulled some node low (electrically low to ground potential - etc) so instead of guessing f they are the problem and if the are or are not working, we can put your meter across the node and verify if it is low or high as needed.

regards,

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Jan 18, 2011

ive been using the bally continental schematic i downloaded from a site, its the only ss one i could find, but everything seems to pretty well match.  im getting close, ive eliminated probably 75% of things. my friend from raytheon is going to come over this week i think, and we should be able to find the startup problem.. what it does is when u put a coin in it adds credits fine, i can push red button to play them and even rack up the multiplier to 10, the if there is a ball in any of the holes it will release them to the trough, except holes 24, 13, and 6, and then nothing else happens unless i tilt it, when this prob was intermittent i would here the ball lift motor bump a little, then i could push the manual lift button and play fine for a while, but now it seems to be more permanent. it acts like theres no power to those switches, but testing them shows 3 volts, and continuity seems fine on all the wires, so i think its a return line, but im having difficulty with following the schematic.  on the schematic that circuit shows a runway switch in circuit with those holes, which i think maybe is causing the game to not start.  what is also confusing is that on one of the schematic pages it shows R button etc and ball trough switch and lift motor together (i think) in that line

http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/continental/resources/manual-continental.pdf

heres the link where i got the manual,

i could be way off but i think the bally continental boards is very close to this machine

i did convert a euro continental from french to english text, but still hard to read, i left out pics just the text ive attached it, but dont know if it will help with anything.

ill keep u updated regularly, that circuit is in the chematics for bally continental 62-1 return 6 seems to be it

having fun

thanks

steve

 

 

1 Attachment

Introductioneurocontinental translated

.docx

To steve k

Jan 18, 2011

thxs steve,

ok i'll wait to hear the results from your next get together with your raytheon buddy.......

can you please email the schematic or point me to the website so I can also down load it - once in hand - i will give you measuring points for the 7-segments display board, so we can isolate the defects there - i will also see if i can use it to identify replacement parts...

 


steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Jan 18, 2011

danny, heres the link for the schematics

im thinking of replacing 4 chips off of a return 6 they are ecg3086 opto isolators, 8 pin

thats all i know as of now, ive tried to find the short for those resistors, but no luck also

thanks again for everything

steve

 

http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/continental/resources/manual-continental.pdf




steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Jan 25, 2011

hey Danny, just to give you an update.... my friend found at least one transistor bad q17 and maybe q19, but the trace needs repaired so he took the boards with him, it goes to the ball lift motor, he also took the led board, so hopefully ill know more Friday ill keep u posted... thanks.  He tested all the chips, and they seem fine, so hopefully just transistors

steve

 

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Feb 5, 2011

Sure, if u need more pix or anything let me know, he got me the boards back, yesterday, but we usually only have 2 hours each week to test, I shot a transistor on my lethal weapon for my dmd display so all of our time went to getting a fuse to stop blowing, still have a cap or a resistor thats not sending 100v to connector.

He wants to test some things on the boards he fixed before i try them in the super six, not sure what, i really want to hook em back up but he said to wait. He said everything on the mpu and led displays tested fine, so well probably move to the other boards strobes i think he said, after we get this startup prob fixed, hopefully it was just the transistor he replaced,  but he should be back on friday if snow holds off.

oh, i did find a chip that someone had cut a pin and jumpered with solder underneath on mpu, i thought that might have been a problem, so i put it how you would think it goes, but all that did was disable the multiplier so had to redo that back to the way it was, i can send pics of chip, but prob not much of a big deal.  this was before he took the boards, forgot to mention that earlier.

thanks

steve

 

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Feb 15, 2011

well, not much luck this week, my meter broke, just bought a new one and its defective (radio shack) my friend has flu, so he didnt make it up, and still troubleshooting a dataeast power supply, (may have to break down and buy a new one) so maybe this friday can make some progress. ill keep you posted

steve

 

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Feb 28, 2011

Hi Danny, the power supply was from a lethal weapon 3 pinball, i did fix it, but the dmd or controller still needs fixed or replaced, my friend just came back from NC, so in a few days we are going to get started again on the super six cards, i was putting off fixing the display on it, until i get the startup problem fixed but now i think well go ahead and fix the display just to get that out of the way. ill get back to you in a few days when he comes over, we should make progress then.

If you need any pics just let me know ill get them to you.

thanks,

steve

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Mar 8, 2011

Hi Danny,

ok the only board that has a part number is the lamp driver

lda

m-645-455

there are 2 of them

none of the other boards has any identification

now there is a remote control receiver board, but no part number either

originally i thought  super six cards was like the euro continental, until i came across the bally continental schematics and seen that everything pretty much matched. On the playfield wiring from the bally continental schematics return 62-1   bbp1-10 is the circuit im having trouble with.  Im hoping to get a short video of whats going on to send to you in a day or two.  My friend hasnt had time to help for the past few weeks,  but maybe this friday.  one thing i noticed about the artwork is its got a lot of purple compared to other machines that has the same playfied

and this machine also has a plug up front i guess for the keyboard display unit, as shown in the bally continental manual.

anything else you need just let me know, ill get back to you hopefully friday or saturday with better result.

thanks

steve

 

 

steve k Snippet unavailable

To Me

Mar 10, 2011

Danny,

Made a little progress today on super six, the back of the mpu board says made in Italy Hopefully that help,

the circuits on the mpu do match up with bally continental, and weve narrowed down the start problem to the mpu.  The wiring and switches all check out so were going to test chips next week.  I am going to get a read from the 3 eeproms if my friend has the reader, if not im going to order one, dont know when but ill send u a copy as soon as i get them, i do have the eeprom chip numbers if u need it.

thanks, Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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