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Apr 2024
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Greg wrote in on his
“newly purchased” Sirmo Ole South asking for help to correct a
Error 21 fault condition` The machine was known working
when purchased, but had the problem once the transport was complete` We never got a chance to
finish trouble-shooting the problems`…Greg just stopped writing one
day` But I did learn some things
about the circuitry and manuals worth posting` Greg was kind of focused on
the keypad when he started describing things to me`…We never really
got a chance to talk about what he
was doing`…It sounded like he was doing a very long test sequence` He mentioned several times
that “the keypad would stop / kind of lock up” at the “switch
tests” and not let him complete the lengthy operation` Kind of my fault, because my
mind kept turning toward the problems being mechanically related` Especially when he shared that
he once opened up the Bingo and “repaired a broken wire on one of the
switches” in the top cabinet`…I
never did understand which wire, but later he shared that “he repaired
a spade lug” but it did not fix the error` As we talked, he also
mentioned that he was struggling with the handrail`…That more-and-more
often doing so would “shutdown
the top cabinet” as he pulled it to remove the playfield glass and open
things up` That something was amiss with
the ball lift assembly`…is did seem to work` His first photo also showed me
he had the front coin door open, so as I say: I was thinking the error was mechanical:
Couldn’t clear the error using the keypad, the machine worked until
moved, he found a broken wire in the
top cabinet, the handrail had a mechanical problem – etc Also, in my mind I
couldn’t believe the error would not “just clear it’s
self” once you shut the doors`…buttoned up the Bingo It doesn’t make sense to
me, that “opening the coin door to service the printer” or
something innocent requires the keypad for correction`…These
things happen all the time..i.e, the owner opening
the Bingo to gather proceeds - etc I cannot image the designers
require you to do some advanced keypad operation to continue/recover` OK, so this is basically where
we started working together and I wanted to understand the operation of the
“shutdown” switches, to help diagnose and learn about the
problems` _ Ole South
Security Switches _ We are lucky on Ole South and
have three manuals and a parts catalogs for the Bingo In the “red” Game
1000 manual we see our first reference to Error 21 and it points to the coin
door`
The passage points toward (3) switches/detects
in the machine that are security related` The next reference we see to
Error 21 is in the “pink” PROC1101 manual` And it further ties the error
to security/tampering with words like Door Witness, Control Elements, and “if an access is made”
- laugh - etc`
Pg 14 _ Proc1101 Ole South
Manual Various signals monitored for
tampering`…”door” , “front molding” , and the
“front panel” Matching one-to-one with the
2x Errors listed in the Game Manual Now Note: How the Door Witness panel is repeated
back-to-back’ Sections 18/19 are the same,
but different`…dealing with the “Door Witness” errors in
the Bingos #18 assigns Error #s to faults
detected while the machine is in the “power off” mode` #19 assigns Error #s to faults
detected while the machine is in the “power on” mode` In #18 please note: “A
technician is needed to cancel this error” using the keypad controls
(M), (Q) and the Secret Code So interpreting this, two tables,
I am thinking there are (2) levels of shutdown` …and that the
lower-level faults clear themselves once the machine is closed up and the
next game started – etc Kind of pointing to my theory
above, that the keypad is not need to clear all errors` _ Door Witness Tables _
A secondary thought I had was:
Perhaps this is why the keyboard sequence Greg was trying to perform would
quit at the steps involving
test`…Maybe the machine cannot clear an error that is mechanical, that
is still there` I have also been thinking the
keypad procedure Greg was doing is a different/separate function`…We
never got a chance to explore this` I think clearing errors is a
simpler routine`…involving just a few steps and just a few keyboard
buttons as mentioned in table #18 So, I continued driving Greg
to chase the switches as our approach for trouble-shooting` …and to start, just
follow the Coin Door switch, and we were led to the CPU board` _ PCB 1000 CPU Board _
As you can see here on Pg 36
of the PROC1101 schematic drawings, the Coin Door switch (SW DOOR) ties to a
circuit comprised of (4) shutdowns
networked together`…set-up to operate with and without the Bingo turned
on`
A common circuit with (4)
control nodes that function as a shutdown/alert system` Separate nodes/signals that
operate in the same manner`…labeled SW DOOR , SW TILT , PLF SW , SW FP As such, we only need to look
at one to understand the overall operation`…and/or until we discover a
problem` Further down below I show the location of the other three
signals, but for now let’s target the coin door switch` Please Note: That J TILT is an oddball that I will also
expand on` As we see on the CPU
schematic, the coin door switch is labeled with the name SW DOOR And I believe this is the
“door” referred to in the Door Witness tables, the signal
associated with Error 21 _ Front Coin Door Switch _
To begin, I started walking
Greg through a set of steps to see what the Coin Door switch was doing` Naturally beginning with
novice stuff`…for someone new to electronics`
Greg’s measurements
showed that the switch resistor measurements were fine` So I had him connected it back
in and set up to measure voltage` Greg’s not much of a photographer`…laugh`
In this case it doesn’t affect the operation, but
yes`…Greg’s wires are backwards`
The wires from the switch
route down to the J Door connector on the Tilt Board The switch’s only
function is to connect or disconnect Pin 11 and Pin 12 of the connector` When the coin door is closed,
the switch is closed, and Pin 12 is tied “low” to signal ground
on Pin 11 When the coin door is open,
the switch is open, and Pin 12 is allowed to float`…it is pulled
“high” up on the CPU board` Logic 0 “low” and
Logic 1 “high”
Again measuring right at the terminals on the switch:
Greg connected everything back up and powered on the Bingo. I lost his
email and the exact measurements, but it looked like the switch was
working correctly. He had 0-volts when he manually closed the switch and
had just under 5-volts when he released the switch post` At the same time, he sent in
measurements for a second switch, which I assumed was the Front Panel switch up in the
top cabinet`…he stopped emailing before I could find out` And too bad too`…The readings
were backwards…? Very weird`…Was it a
measurement mistake, was it a wiring mistake (was this the wiring he had
repaired), and/or did he just record the
readings incorrectly`…Who knows, but it does point to a problem with
the Bingo not a problem with operating
the keypad correctly`…So, I continued to examine the circuitry` Here is the circuit path the
switch takes from the Tilt Board up the CPU
Tilt board
J-Door Connector Pin 12 → Tilt board
J-Tilt Connector Pin 22 → Body Split
board Connector J-Tilt Pin 22 → Body Split board
Connector JB Pin
20 → CPU board Connector JB Pin 20
_ CPU PCB 1000 _ As I thought about things`…I realized that you
really need to measure the voltages up on the CPU to understand everything`…there is a lot going on` Remember: There are two Door Witness tables one for
faults that occurred with the Bingo powered on` And a second one for faults that occur while the Bingo is
powered off` Powered off is the easier condition
to measure and easily tells you if the switches are operating correctly`
Logic 0 “low” and
Logic 1 “high” _ Pull-up Resistors _
So, in the “powered
off” condition, we can measure the health of all (4) shutdowns by measuring the voltage drop
of the pull-up resistors`
Now likely the pull-up
resistors are not individual parts down on the PCB`…down on the CPU
board` It is my guess that they are all in the
same component package`…We never got a chance to look at this`
If either voltage is
incorrect: You have found a problem` Here is Vbat on the CPU
Card`…On the body there, it says it is 3.6-volts` OK, so what is all of this
other circuitry`…the other components..?
Electronic chips U94/U95 are
“set and reset” Flip-Flops and look to have (2) purposes` To note an event happened and
to try to clear events/faults by Reset U93 is a 74HCT32 (Quad
OR-Gate) and appear to act as a “truth detect” – laugh` For some reason the circuit
wants to know if a failure occurred and if it fixed it’s self` Was it a temporary failure, a
transient, or a hard fault event needing addressed`…sensitivity`
At the very top of the
schematic is the “Reset Latch” - The control signal saying clear
the error` This signal is controlled by
CPU Data Bus`…Intelligent, clear the error by timing or by keypad` The latch tells the flip-flop
to clear the errors`…unless they are still present` Now U56 a 74HC126 somehow,
laugh, alerts the Data Bus that the security detect occurred while the Bingo was either
powered on or powered off`…I am not too sure how` But notice how it is tied to
Vbat and VCC`…this is the electronic chip that knows the power
condition` …I am not too sure how
it interacts with the keypad waiting for correction` But I am pretty sure
everything I have said here is close to correct` Hence, the reason I say that
“low-level” failures self-correct`…That no keypad op is
needed` The machine is always sending
the Reset Latch command out to clear errors` It knows if power is/was
on-or-off, where the fault occurred - etc Overall, the circuit
constantly monitors what is going on in the Control Elements in the Door
Witness tables` Monitors the power condition
and the (4) signals we are chasing`…the switches and security detects` But admittedly, I will need access to a machine to really
understand everything` ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ SW FP = Switch Front Panel _ Backglass/Head Switch _
That triggers when the drop
the front panel to access the CPU / Backbox
When you drop the Front Panel
out/down to access the CPU Board and backbox` Naturally this switch pops
open`…when you fold down the panel`
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PLF SW = Playfield Switch This switch is located in the
Front Molding`…in the players handrail` …and it doesn’t
appear to be a switch at all`
It’s hard to tell
though`…this circuitry does not appear to be on the schematics` Great`…laugh –
It’s my guess that this is simply a “jumper” wire` A wire right at the connector,
connecting Pin 8 and Pin 7 In effect, a mechanical switch
that “opens” when you lift off the handrail`
The jumper being
on the handrail side connector`
Here you can tell that the
connector is kind of crappy, laugh, not made for 1000s of connects`
Hence, why Greg
was having so many problems with this connect`…his “the backbox just stops working” Here I would
completely eliminate the problem by “bolting” the two connectors
together` Especially for
trouble-shooting`…just take out the playfield glass and minimize the
mechanical wear` --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SW TILT = Lower Cabinet Tilts Located right inside the Coin
Door on the Tilt Board Please Note: That the control
SW TILT is not a typical “mechanical” switch as the others` It is the tilt bobs in that
form a switch with the brackets and pendulums`
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _ Keypad Operation _ This is why I say “that
the procedure Greg was doing was separate” This excerpt from the
“red” Game 1000 manual suggests that the keypad operation to
clear errors is simple`
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ OK, it’s always a good
idea to do basic trouble-shooting when several things appear to be broken` Doing a thorough visual
inspection with good lighting is a must`…to look for obvious problems` Cables unplugged, fuses burnt/opened.
Red LEDs lit up, smoke, blackened components – etc Greg basically had two
problems: (2) open fuses and (1) incorrect keypad operation` _ Summary/Keypad Notes _ Well Danny…..ITS
FIXED!!! It plays great, and I am embarrassed for both of us to tell
you what it was…. 2 bad fuses and a
mistake (or omission) in the test pad instructions! Once he found the
burned out fuses and got the head to re-light, he quickly messed with the
test pad and realized that after pressing the “T” key to cycle to
the appropriate test, you have to then push the “Q” key to quit
any previous tests stored in the memory. Once he cleared the keypad he
was able to initiate the test to locate the door open error (which was a
“ghost” error, or old one), clear it with one entry, and then the
board dumped the balls and started up a new game. There was no ball
lifter motor error after all… it read that solely because the door open
error had to be cleared first. All that time we spent looking for bad
switches, wires, and terminals was for naught, and in 20-minutes it was
completely fixed. I suspect that the power problems did exist`…intermittent
power operation in the backbox. The ball lift
refusing to work, the keypad locking up` Other odd readings in the system checks – etc` Please note: The machine has to be in operating condition
in order for the keypad to operate and clear errors` Hence the reminder for basic trouble-shooing
when your Bingo is plagued with multiple problems` When it was working fine one day and then working like
crap after being moved a long journey` _ Thought/Notes _ For home use, I might just
short out all the detects`…eliminate them` Remove the
switches`…just tie the two connects/wires directly together - etc` No security at all`…laugh` _ LINKS _ _
Solid-State Theory-of-Operation _ Archive of just the Chip Sets & Boards Greg provided the nice copies of the manual and a few
really great photos` Thank you Sir |
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