for the oil tubes, you can use 3-in-1 oil (blue can) or any teflon lube like tri-flow. It doesn't matter a whole lot. Those tubes end in felt packed around brass sleeve bearings that the motor rotor goes thru.

the bearings are self-aligning, but at this point are likely stuck in the correct alignment, and having a little oil in there isn't going to be significant.

the gearbox itself you'd need to remove the motor and open up to change the grease. You have an open hole that a short screw usually plugs.

the replay counter stepper units you need to access the wiper side. Cleaning crud off the printed circuit traces (denatured alcohol and a green scrub pad or 0000 synthetic steel wool) may be god enough. if the ratchet is gummy because someone used something like wd40 in there, you take apart the unit by:

1] remove the wipers
2] remove one bolt from the open at 96 switch poking out over the ratchet. Loosen the other bolt and flip the switch up out of the way
3] remove the return spring coiled around the ratchet. Should have 2 turns of tension on it.
4] you can usually pull the ratchet out and clean off the shaft/hole. No lube should be used on plastic->metal interfaces. If you can't get the ratchet out, you can remove the arms. You may want to remove the arms anyway to clean/lube the pivot points.
5] lube the pivot points of the arms.
6] a really thin smear of super-lube on the circuit traces will help prevent oxidation
7] reverse to reinstall. For the return spring, you can go a little looser or tighter, but test to make sure unit can step all the way up and will reset after one step.

the motor manufacturer recommends magnalube (G or GX) inside the gearbox.

you don't need much...but you can usually get the one pound can for a few bucks more than two of the .75oz tubes, so might as well get the can. Ebay is a good source.

clean out all the old grease with a solvent, and when putting in the new stuff you just want it on the gear teeth. Don't pack the grease deep in between the gear faces...the shear strength of the grease will bog down the motor. A little grease between the gears at the teeth is ok.

you can put a little magnalube on edges of/pins on the metal drag arms cams and the tops of the drag arms.

"Twit", use 75/90 synthetic gear lube oil.
Works great. The only thing is, you need a good
gasket to contain the synthetic lube oil.
I put the oil in before re-assembling the motor.
The motor is super quite.
Terry K

It's kind of hard to tell.
My objective is for the gears to be about a third
in the lube oil.
I guess that would be 1/3, or a tad more, full.
It's hard to get the oil just right,as the gears tend to
fall out when you try to put the motor back together.
One of my motors has a fill hole on the top, but, what I don't
like is that it is hard to get 75/90 in the small hole; then
again you are not sure how much you have in the case!
I found anything lighter than this oil grade tends to
a noisy(er) motor.
Terry K

motor pieces (resized).JPG

liquid gear oils will dampen the motor noise, but they tend to weep out the shaft. Some of the gearboxes also have the secondary shaft poking thru the case and oil will seep out there also.

the operators that ran heavyweight liquid oils usually mounted a metal drip pan under the mixer motor to prevent the eventual oil slick down the back door and all over the units beneath the mixer motor.

if going with a liquid, I'd use the heaviest gear oil you can find. The shaft seal on the motors is just a rubber cone that really wasn't intended to hold in liquids...it's just there to help keep a little of the oil that separates out of the grease from coming out.